Visiting Venice with Kids (Italy)
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Venice has been called one of the most beautiful cities in the world, but I had some serious doubts before boarding my plane. Just like everyone else planning to visit Venice with kids, I too had obviously heard about the picturesque canals and the gondolas, but those were easily trumped by the other things I had been warned about that I couldn’t get out of my mind: the bugs, the dirtiness and the smell. Thankfully, we didn’t experience any of those things, and I surprisingly consider Venice to be one of my favorite cities despite the fact that it fell short in the two aspects that typically mean the most to me when traveling: good food and decent hotel accommodations.
Unlike other parts of Italy (where it’s recommended to visit between Spring and early Fall), U.S. News & World Report actually says that the ideal travel window for Venice is between September and November. We traveled in October, when the crowds were at a relative low and the weather was mild. That said, if your schedule doesn’t allow you to be in Venice with kids during this time, it’s still worth a trip because this beautiful city will soon be underwater.
Scroll down for a list of the top sites to see, best foods to eat, and some tips on traveling to Venice with kids – or if you’re impatient, click below to jump to a specific part of the page.
VENICE WITH KIDS: GENERAL INFORMATION
How to Get Around
We were arriving in Venice by train after staying with relatives in Milan, and the ride on Trenitalia’s “Frecciarossa” high-speed line was a shockingly pleasant and direct 2.5 hour one. If you did bring a car, you’ll need to park it outside the city because it can’t come with you. While many people will try to convince you to just make a day trip there when visiting Venice with kids, the real beauty of the city is found while walking the streets and experiencing the surrounding areas – which you really can’t do effectively if you’re only there for a few hours (and you CERTAINLY can’t do effectively if your kids are screaming because they’ve been sitting in a car for too long).
Once inside the city, you’ll soon find that getting around by a ferry boat (AKA “vaporetto”) is both the easiest and most frustrating method of transportation around. If you’re not pressed for time, you can almost always get where you need to go on foot, but if you’ve brought any type of rolling suitcase and/or a stroller, you will soon learn that the vaporetto is going to become your best friend, regardless of how off-schedule it may be. While many will recommend using something called a “traghetto” as an alternative to a vaporetto, we avoided them completely as they didn’t seem particularly baby-gear-friendly since they were essentially miniature gondolas and I didn’t feel like fishing our stroller out of the Grand Canal if I could avoid it.
That said, as a general rule of thumb, I would recommend taking the vaporetto whenever possible when in Venice with kids (including to tour the Grand Canal), take the “traghetto” only if you leave your gear (and your kids – just kidding) in your hotel room (unless they’re older and can walk a decent distance on their own), and avoid the taxi speed boats (“taxi acquei”) at all costs because they’re a total ripoff and don’t add anything to your experience that the other two options don’t already provide. Don’t follow our example and try to hoof it to your hotel either – you’ll have plenty of opportunities to break your back without having your luggage in tow.
The University of Warwick has a really handy photo to help you identify the differences between the key modes of transportation, which I’ve included below and which may be useful when visiting Venice with kids.
Is It Kid-friendly?
SORT OF. So let’s talk about this for a second. Regardless of what I’m about to say, I want you to understand that you still need to see Venice – but you DO need to be prepared. Let me explain it like this: Venice has more than 400 bridges. Each of these bridges has a minimum of, conservatively speaking, 12 stairs. And it truly feels like whomever designed these bridges calculated the exact mathematics behind exactly how far apart to space each step so that it’s either too close to or too far apart from the next one to allow you to roll anything up or down them without dropping it all on the ground.
So what does this mean? First, wear your child if you can. If that’s not an option and you need your stroller, start lifting weights now. You think I’m kidding, but I’m not. It’s a battle. But it’s so worth it once your heart rate returns to normal.
VENICE WITH KIDS: TOP 5 THINGS TO SEE
1. A Gondola Tour
- About: I don’t care what you’ve read about how you can get the same experience by taking a water taxi while in Venice – that is a lie. You’re likely not coming back, so spend the money and make the memories, for crying out loud. You can’t book in advance, and the prices are now regulated everywhere you go, so you don’t need to worry about being scammed like in years past. There are only two things you need to decide: a) the duration (I recommend the shorter loop) and b) the route. While some people prefer taking the famous Grand Canal loop, you’ll inevitably see that again during one of your vaporetto treks, so I’d recommend doing the smaller canal + mini bridges option instead. You’ll start your ride in the middle of tourists and noise, but as the route continues, you’ll end up meandering through narrow streets that are truly unlike anything I’ve ever seen before, and the serenity that comes with it is priceless. It’s worth noting that your “gondoliere” won’t sing unless you pay extra, but you’ll likely hear someone else’s along the way, which accomplishes the same goal for a lot less money.
- Kid-friendly? YES – and make sure you take their photo while you’re on it. If you’re like me, you can also bury your head in your hands while your husband belts out a horrendously off-key rendition of “O Sole Mio” on his own, which merely made arriving back on solid ground all the more appreciated (by both us and those within a 50 mile radius).
- Total time to allow: Approx. 40 minutes for the shorter loop; we didn’t have to wait before boarding, but did get stuck in a “traffic jam” (if you can believe it) that took an extra 10-15 minutes or so on the gondola itself.
- More information (the tours don’t have a website): https://veneziaautentica.com/gondola-ride-venice/
2. Burano
- About: You sure you didn’t mean Murano? Yup, I’m sure. I’ve never seen a more vibrant landscape than in this beautiful little city. Most famous for its lacework and brightly-colored houses (which are assigned their colors by the local government, actually), we snapped some pictures, tasted some amazing “bussola'” and “essi” cookies (which were shockingly allergy-friendly), and were finished in an hour. On your ferry ride back, you’ll also get a view of the impossible-to-miss and hauntingly beautiful island of San Michele, AKA “Cemetery Island,” which – as the name implies – is filled entirely with tombs and churches. We passed on seeing this since we preferred not to get depressed on our vacation, but everything I’ve read says it’s worth a stop if you have the time.
- Kid-friendly? YES, and it’s even stroller-friendly too, incredibly! This island is smaller than Murano (see below), with fewer bridges and wider streets, making it great for the littles. It’s also a lot less busy than its neighbor, which gives it a more “homey” feel.
- Total time to allow: Approx. 1-1.5 hours, and you can combine it with a trip to Murano because your traghetto stops there anyway on the way back. Both sites can be done the same day, so pack a lunch and your stroller, though you’ll likely need to collapse it while on the traghetto because they can get pretty crowded on this particular route.
- More information: www.isoladiburano.it/en
3. Murano
- About: World-famous for its hand-blown glass, Murano offers everything from small trinkets to large mirrors and chandeliers. Don’t be tempted to buy Murano glass from the shops in Venice proper – they’re slightly cheaper here on the island instead, and you’ll have a much wider selection. In almost any given nook or cranny, you’ll inevitably come across some glass-blowing demonstration (we even saw one outside!), and the glass artwork on display in the middle of town is pretty stunning. If you Google “Murano glass,” you’ll get a general sense of the types of things you can find on the island – just keep in mind that whatever you take back with you will likely be unwrapped by Airport Security on your flight home. In our case, we bought a glass sailboat that brought the equivalent of the airport’s SWAT team down on us when my husband rolled through the gate with it wrapped about 100 times in duct tape. Can’t say I really blamed them because we DID look totally suspicious…
- Kid-friendly? YES – just keep a close eye on your little one because expensive glass and young children typically don’t mix, and the vendors are less than forgiving. There are also a few bridges you’ll need to cross, but not nearly as many as in Venice proper.
- Total time to allow: Approx. 3 hours, though this assumes that you’re browsing the shops and catching a glass-blowing demonstration. If you just want to say you saw it, you can power through in half the time.
- More information: www.muranoglass.com/en
4. Mercati di Rialto(Rialto Markets)
- About: This likely won’t come up on many other travel articles (it wasn’t on our itinerary either), but it’s still definitely worth a visit just to see “how the other half lives.” This is a local market that offers fresh fish, meat, vegetables and fruit, along with some packaged goods to bring home as souvenirs. The best part about it, though, is that it’s filled with regional bakeries, cafes, shops and restaurants that are less touristy than what you’ll be seeing elsewhere in Venice. The highlight for us was watching this guy fillet an entire fish in about 10 seconds – about 100 times in a row. Oh, and it’s right next to the famous Rialto Bridge, which gives you a really nice view of Venice.
- Kid-friendly? YES – there’s plenty of action here, and it’s located in the part of Venice that’s less bridge-y (though you still have to GET there from wherever you are, so again, wear your little one if at all possible).
- Total time to allow: Approx. 1.5 hours, though you can do it in about 30-45 minutes if needed.
- More information (the market doesn’t have a website): https://www.venice-information.com/Venice-Rialto-Market.html
5. Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square)
- About: Known as the heart of Venice, the Piazza San Marco is probably most famous for the hoards of pigeons that inevitably flock the area, despite the fact that feeding them was technically banned in 2008. At least half a dozen cafes line the perimeter, and most of them hire their own private entertainment on small, makeshift stages alongside waiters dressed in white tuxedos to really complete the look. Try to visit both in early morning and late at night, because you’ll get two different feels. Within the Piazza are three famous landmarks that you can’t miss even if you tried: the Campanile (Bell), the Basilica and the Palazzo Ducale (Doge’s Palace – see below).
- Kid-friendly? YES – just don’t let them touch the pigeons. Oh, and bring a hat. Preferably one that can be easily washed in the sink.
- Total time to allow: 15 minutes minimum. As the name implies, it’s literally a square – but I’d recommend at least grabbing an espresso or hot chocolate (see below) while there to give yourself the full experience.
- More information (the piazza doesn’t have a website): https://www.theveniceinsider.com/san-marco-venice/
HONORABLE MENTION: Palazzo Ducale
Impossible to miss when visiting St. Mark’s Square (because you see it both from land and water), the Palazzo Ducale (“Doge’s Palace”) houses the famous “Ponte dei Sospiri” (“Bridge of Sighs”), where prisoners would catch their last glimpse of Venice after being read their sentence in the prison’s courtroom. They’d supposedly walk across the bridge and see the beauty of their beloved city for the last time, which elicited so many tears and – you guessed it – sighs – that it soon named itself. Fun fact: the Palazzo Ducale is actually the facade used for the Italy Pavilion at Epcot in Disneyworld. We personally found the Palazzo Ducale to be pretty boring (how much of the same ornate furniture can people see without their eyes glazing over?), but it’s one of those must-see spots when in Venice with kids so you might as well do it if you’re there. Just be prepared to shell out 20 euros a person (kids under 6 are free) to get in.
VENICE WITH KIDS: WHAT TO EAT
As I alluded to before, here’s the crazy thing about Venice: the food kinda sucked for us. I’m sure we just went to the wrong places, but for Italy, I expected much, MUCH more than what we got here when it came to food. Maybe the townspeople have just given up, or maybe I’m just impossible to please (who, me? No…), but we had a REALLY HARD TIME finding anything good to eat. We would stop people who resembled locals, but nobody ever seemed to have any real recommendations – and after having eaten there too, I totally get it. In hindsight, I think it was because we chose a hotel that was near the Piazza San Marco, on the East side of the Grand Canal – if you stayed closer to the station, you’d probably find better food because it’s less of a tourist trap.
Famous Dishes
- Risi e bisi (rice and peas): while I can’t say I was too disappointed about this, we couldn’t find this traditional Venetian dish anywhere, but if you happen to go somewhere that serves this, it’s worth a try.
- Spaghetti in nero di seppia (black squid ink spaghetti): if you can get past the visual, this is a fairly common dish around Venice. What always shocks me is how little squid ink is actually required to turn the entire dish black, but the taste is ultimately pretty salty and fairly rich.
- Spaghetti alle Vongole (spaghetti with clam sauce): this turned into my go-to dish when my favorite tagliatelle alla bolognese wasn’t available. For the most part, the seafood in Venice is usually really fresh, so that’s typically a safe bet – just don’t expect them to de-shell – or de-head – any shellfish because those babies are coming onto your plate just the way they came out of the ocean.
Where to Eat: Breakfast
Caffe’ Florian (Castello 5453, 30122 Venezia): Established in 1720, this cafe says it’s the oldest continuously-operating coffee house in Italy. Its claim to fame is an intensely-rich hot chocolate, though the affogato (vanilla ice cream with hot espresso on top) is pretty stellar too. Plan to spend half your paycheck here, though, because it’s the most expensive breakfast establishment I think I’ve ever been to (think 13 euros for a cappuccino). I think the most enjoyable part for us was watching the patrons around us (who all had a lot more money than we did) “ooh!” and “ahh!” when their massive towers of miniature pastries and tea sandwiches would arrive. My daughter, however, found that banging the sterling silver forks and spoons on the table was far more enjoyable.
Where to Eat: Lunch
- I’ve got nothing here – sorry. We tried a fresh pasta place that serves everything in Chinese food containers and it was pretty awful. I think I blocked the rest out of my mind.
Where to Eat: Dinner
- Unfortunately, I really can’t help you here either. We wandered around for over an hour each night looking for someplace that didn’t have its menu written in English with giant pictures next to each dish (we’ve learned that usually that’s a bad sign), and finally just gave up and ate wherever we landed because our daughter was ready to have a meltdown. A general safe thing to order virtually anywhere tends to be their spaghetti bolognese, as it’s actually a fairly simple dish to make and usually is decent no matter where you get it.
VENICE WITH KIDS: WHERE TO STAY
Hotel Rio (Castello, 4358, 30100, Venezia)
- Hotels in Venice are minuscule, and Hotel Rio fits right in. To their credit, they keep the rooms immaculately clean and fairly modern, but as you see from the photos (note the pack ‘n’ play, which touched the wall and required my husband to lunge straight forward to get out of bed), spaciousness is not a forte here.
- The location was extremely convenient, though, which was why we chose Hotel Rio. While it made finding good food difficult, it did minimize walking and allowed us to go back and forth between the room and the sites so B could nap.
- From what I can tell, Hotel Rio seems to own two buildings – the main hotel (which had no elevator and required you to walk up about 20 steps to reach) and a satellite building, which is essentially adjacent to it. We were in the latter and initially thought this was super sketchy, but upon seeing the room, were encouraged because it did match what we booked and was fairly quiet.
- Would I stay there again on my next trip to Venice with kids? That’s a good question. Maybe. I don’t think it’s all that much smaller than anywhere else in that area, the location was great, and it was clean. But would I book it without doing another search to see if anything new opened since we went a couple years ago? Definitely not, and I would recommend that you research some other options too.
